Ruaha

In my first couple of weeks back in Arusha, I was invited on a special safari down to Southern Tanzania. Our destination was driving to Ruaha National Park. For connoissuers, this park is one of the best in the world. Ruaha is the second largest conservation area in Tanzania and areas are still being discovered. This lack of game driving and supervision has led to an increase in poaching. Issues that the local park authorities and lodge owners are working out. Ruaha is in the south-west region of the country and sprawled along the Great Rift Valley, where the southern and eastern fauna meet. The scenery changes dramatically. Most of the wildlife drinks from the Great Ruaha River, which during the rains sends plenty of water throughout the park. As the season gets drier, watering holes with pools are scattered throughout the park, where game surrounds to drink and the river bed is dried up.
Ruaha contains some of the largest pride of lion, numbering in 20 plus each. In addition, there are packs of African wild dogs, which often times are extremely rare to spot, but nonetheless they survive in Ruaha- perhaps one of the only places to see them in Tanzania besides the Selous Game Reserve. You can find the Big Five in Ruaha and there is limited amounts of vehicles in the park. It is quite a long journey to get to the gates of Ruaha, so most guests fly in. The Southern circuit is often times a charter flight, park to park experience.

We headed off at 6am for Dar es Salaam from Arusha. Most of the drive was smooth sailing, one Landcruiser following one Landrover, each matching in army green - a true safari caravan. In Chalinze, about an hour away from Dar es Salaam, the Landrover broke down. The radiator hose and cylinder gasket had burst. We bought a tow-pole and the Landcruiser pulled the Landrover into peak time traffic in Dar es Salaam. After a quick inspection, the fundis decided we were going to have to leave the car in Dar. We went to the Kempinski Hotel to meet Kyle's father and proceeded to get some sushi and white wine.
An early wake up call and we were off out of Dar, the fundis would take care of the car for a couple of days. We drove out in peak morning traffic and eventually made our way out of town, into Mikumi National Park. The main road goes through the game park that borders the Selous Game Reserve. We did not see any game and continued to make our long journey, through Morogoro and finally 6 hours later, Iringa. It was now that we began to see turn signs for Ruaha National Park. From these signs we still had another 2.5 hours to the park gate. We traveled along the never ending road as it is called and forged ahead until we made it to the gate.
Our first evening game drive we followed the roads along the Great Ruaha River, the river circuits. Often times you may find herds of game drinking by the river. However, as the day approaches dusk, many herds scatter as they know that many predators come to the river to find food. Even large mammals cannot fend off the huge 20 plus prides of lion. We would stay at Mwagusi Safari Camp in luxury tented ensuite accommodations. The owner Chris Fox was a friend of the group and is a great host. Mwagusi Safari Camp is an extremely intimate camp along a dried up riverbed. All the rooms are equipped with ensuite shower and toilets and are surrounded by canvas. The outside verandas are sand pits with comfortable couches. During the morning or afternoon hours game can be seen coming into the riverbed.
Mornings, are tea or coffee by the fire as the staff prepares breakfast. Everyone eats together, family style, a great way to get to interact with other guests. After a leisurely breakfast, open Landcruisers are waiting for you, ready for the morning game drive. The guides are great and amazingly friendly. Our first day we encountered a couple of prides of lion laying lazily along the riverbed. We had passed a giraffe carcass and assumed that they had had a meal during the night. These lions would be moving anytime soon.


The landscape of Ruaha is breathtaking, rolling hills, the Great river, mini forests, dry savannahs, acacias and baobab trees. Most driving circuits are quite intimate, rummaging through plants and tight corners. After a couple of hours driving, we would return back to Mwagusi for lunch. We were greeted with juice and then served an exquisite assortment of food buffet style. After lunch its hard to not take a siesta, read a book for a while, and then wake up for tea time. At around 4pm, tea or coffee is served with a bit of something sweet and then another game drive is arranged. In the evening, we encountered a leopard cub, shy and quick, as it jumped up onto a rock. We would drive off track to follow it for a while, however, they are extremely clever and made its way into thick bush. Nonetheless, a lucky sighting for us. In the evening the sunsets are gorgeous, deep tones of bright colors behind the outlines of dark limbs of baobabs.
Dinner, we walk down to the dried up river bed beside a camp fire. We are asked if we want any drinks and then sit in a semi-circle asking other guests how their day was. The group eats in the bush on a long table together. We are served soup first with rolls. An assortment of food is spread nicely on some rocks and taken buffet style. Laterns dimly lit on cliffs and rocks adds a nice intimate touch. Most people have a couple of drinks, but the nights end early, as the next day is another early wake up call and more game driving. There is no internet and only stars in the sky and sounds from the bush. An ultimate sanctity away from any hussle and bussle of the city.
Our days would mesh into a week of tea, coffee, eating, game driving, siestas, and more eating and more game driving- leisure...
We encountered elephants, massive herds of buffalo, impala, kudu, waterbuck, giraffe, zebra, hippos, and a variety of birds. I finally got a great shot of a giraffe drinking water. They do a fascinating 'spreading the legs' maneuver to get close enough to drink water. In the afternoon, we encountered two juvenile cheetahs. They looked hungry, but they were not hunting, they would walk some distance and then lie in the shade together.
Animals feel comfortable to come into the camp. So comfortable that often times elephants are found behind a bush near the main dining area. Staff escorts everybody, just in case such an encounter occurs. Elephants do not mean harm, however, they hate to be startled especially if they are with their young. We spent our days in the midst of Ruaha, relaxed. We needed to get our car back, so we got a lift to Iringa and then took a bus to Dar es Salaam. In Dar we found our fundis and the fixed car. After another night in Dar, we were off for Arusha once again, the journey back.
Ruaha is a wonderful place, full of mystery, familiar faces of Tanzanian history, and timeless. I am ever more curious now about the Selous Game Reserve, the Southern circuit differing from the Northern circuit. Hopefully, more trips to come, always new places to discover.
What seems like an endless Tanzania and East Africa...