Saturday, March 15, 2008

Lake Manyara

We had some friends come into town during the holidays. Christmas was spent at Rivertrees with twenty good friends, food, drinks, presents, and lots of laughter. The lodge was busy, but we all managed to have a good time, and it was nice to have another African Christmas and New Year. We were in Cape Town, overlooking the ocean, eating ostrich fillets and drinking good South African wine in 2007. And now, we were feasting on stuffed Turkey and Honey Ham, toasting with champagne in Arusha, to welcome in 2008.
Our friends of course wanted to go on safari somewhere. The options are endless around here, but some game parks are easier to get to than others. When time is an issue, the two closest National Parks are Tarangire and Lake Manyara. I had never been to Lake Manyara before, so I was keen to check it out. Each park is of equal distance, however, the road leading to Lake Manyara was financed by the Japanese government, so in turn, it could possibly be the nicest road in all of Tanzania. The road was built in 2003 and has created a fast and easy way for tourists to get to Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro Crater from Arusha. Hence, taking a day trip to the game park becomes quite easy. We usually use one of Erica's Landrovers and head out to the bush, fully equipped with amenities to make a picnic lunch, and a cooler of beers if desired.
Entering the gates of Lake Manyara is impressive. The tall forest trees engulf one's vision, and large hornbills sit non-chalantly on tree branches. We drove through dense lush jungle forests, that contained small streams of ground water. Looking out, we saw bushbuck and waterbuck graising in the tall grasses, sometimes barely visible because of the dense trees. Soon we came upon river inlets that winded into beautiful prairie's. Here, the baboons and impala roamed free and alongside each other. Baboons, Blue Monkeys, and Colobus Monkeys congregate in large packs, usually completely unthreatened by driving vehicles. When we pulled up to several areas, we saw as many as forty monkeys taking over an area. While an unsuspecting tourist might marvel the idea that the monkeys are so close and timid, the reality is that one must always be a bit on guard to roll up a window, just in case a monkey decides they want to come into the vehicle. These monkeys were by no means threatening.
Looking out past the wooded forest lies the escarpment that denotes the edge of the Rift Valley. Views are impressive and are grounded by the alkaline lake, known as Lake Manyara. This time of the year the flamingoes were in migration elsewhere. However, the lake was filled with other seabirds. In the distance and eventually close up were flocks of hundreds of pelicans, cormorants, and storks. Over 400 species of birds have been recorded in Lake Manyara. Along our drive, I got a nice shot of a fish eagle, known to sometimes take prey as big as a dik dik. Elephants joined the bird flocks, and splashed with eachother. The scene was a perfect moment of life on the lake, we remained there idle for quite sometime, thinking what a good idea it had been to do a game drive on this Sunday.
The lakes and the cliffs truly make Lake Manyara's views spectacular. I was very impressed by this park. Remaining idle allowed us to see a herd of elephants come close and graze on the fuana by the vehicle, even in the dense forests, we had seen elephants extremely close up. They all seemed perfectly tame and went about their business. This day I was enthralled by an old peaceful looking elephant and his/her facial patterns and lines. The sepia photo is attached. Elephants playing in the water and the blue volcanic massai steppes in the background are breathtaking. The plains were filled with herds of buffalo, zebra, giraffes, and wildebeest.
We eventually climbed an acacia woodland to an area that overlooked the lake. This was our lunch spot for the day. Get out of the car, stretch the legs, enjoy a chicken salad sandwich, a hard boiled egg, brownies, some fruit, juice, and a cold beer. I was hoping we might catch a glimpse of a tree climbing lion, but it was to no avail. My bush eyes were always looking up into the trees with the hopes of maybe seeing a lion nestled up in the canopy of the forest. Perhaps next time we would have better luck with lions.
Nonetheless, the drive back out was still equally amazing. The dense forests and waterfalls made me think that this park would be incredible to hike around in. Lake Manyara is one of my favorite game parks in Tanzania. Safi Kabisa!

Rivertrees Country Inn

It has been about five months since I first landed in Arusha, Tanzania. Where the time goes, nobody ever knows, until one day, they reflect on past events. I have been managing a safari lodge in Usa River, a town just outside of Arusha. I wake up about 7am, do the necessary duties to get the day started and start my 1979 orange Mercedes. Say goodbye to our dogs and head out of our village neighborhood, Kijenge. I make a left towards the Impala Hotel round about, passing dukas, Mwanama village, Kijenge Ju, Stiggy's Restaurant, and Dragon Pearl- the local Chinese Restaurant. When I pass the Impala Hotel, I make a right heading towards Phillips, the intersection that leads to the Moshi-Nairobi road. The drive to work is peaceful, once out of town. The only music I have in my car are old reggae tapes, such as Bob Marley, Peter Tosh, Steel Pulse, and Burning Spear. Driving to the tunes, looking out at banana trees in the fields, views of Mt. Meru, mamas carrying water buckets, fruits, or vegetables on their heads, and if we're lucky a nice view of Mt. Kilimanjaro in the distance. Things feel like home, the drive begins the day, and often times I wonder what a blessed life this is to be in such beauty.
After about twenty five minutes, I see a sign on my right for Usa River, immediately a bridge appears. At the end of the bridge on my left is Mt. Meru Game Lodge and to my right is Rivertrees Country Inn. The little road is flat and this time of the year, the trees have colors of deep orange and vibrant yellows. About one minute later are the entry gates. Rivertrees Country Inn has ten standard rooms, all varying in shape and size. Most rooms are modifications from a farm house and its buildings of an old coffee farm, dating back to the 1950's. The first inhabitants were German families, which dedicated themselves to hunting. The land has been passed down generations and now Martina Gehrken-Trappe is the proud owner of her family's legacy. She has developed a majestic country inn little by little throughout the years. The beds and couches are of natural wood design. The rooms are spacious, have decadant colors, always contain fresh flowers, and some have baths. A couple of rooms are connected to the Main House, where guests may use facilities for Internet or sit in the couches to read. The Main House veranda has an amazing view of Mt. Kilimanjaro. A nice place to take tea or coffee. Sometimes, conferences are hosted in the house, and taking a break to sip some coffee and look at the gardens, is a great way to wind down a bit. Crossing a bridge and walking towards the restaurant are lush green lawns, delicately manicured and cut. The pool is a nice way to cool down from the sun, and the water, always makes gorgeous reflections of blues and greens in the foliage above. The first pathway to your left leads one to the River Deck, that overlooks the Usa River. The river flows along side the property and extends down by the River House. The sound of the river creates perfect harmony with the tall trees and lush green plants. To the right side of the River Deck are two River Cottages. Each privately surrounded by plants and along the river. The river cottages have fire places, en suite bathrooms with shower and bath, outdoor rock showers, and decks with couches to sit and read on. The River Cottages are upgraded accommodations and perfect for honeymooners. Honeymooners are welcomed with fresh flower blossoms spread on the bed, fresh juice, and a nice fruit basket.
When one turns around, the structure in front is open with high ceilings and makuti roof. The Main restaurant comfortably sits sixty people with wood tables and chairs. A fire place adorns the center of the restaurant and two lounge areas are set up to relax. The bar directly adjacent to the restaurant has a unique shape and contains curves stretching toward the end. The kitchen directly adjacent is open with adorning terra cota dishes, hanging pans, and a long counter with fresh spices from the garden. The kitchen staff has been trained to cook whatever they see in a picture. In turn, when a chef looks into a new recipe in a book or a magazine, that evening guests might enjoy that new recipe, taken into a new context and their own style. Ultimately, guests enjoy home country cooking. The desserts are some of the best in Arusha, including the famous Chocolate Cake. Nonetheless, locals come for lunch or come dine, and are certain to receive a nice home cooked meal, with a touch of class and excellent presentation.
The last accommodation is the private and exclusive River House. This house is along the river and decadently furnished, providing a luxurious experience for special guests. Each room has rock showers and the veranda is an exquisite place to read or have coffee or tea. The River House remains one of the best accommodations with full satellite cable TV and in house Internet, and a real treat for upscale clients.
Rivertrees Country Inn is a vibrant micro ecosystem with 146 species of birds and different types of monkeys, which frequently make visits. Once in a while monitor lizards appear, and at night people may hear the sound of crying bush babies. The setting is perfect for winding down after a mountain trek, or great inspiration for the beginning of a mountain trek. Respectively, a wonderful place to begin or end a safari excursion. Inclusive, Rivertrees is a great destination to land from a late flight that comes into Kilimanjaro Internatinal Airport. Waking up to this peaceful nature, I find is more desirable than waking up in Arusha. For outside guests or locals, Rivertrees has splendid accommodations, excellent food, beautiful gardens, and friendly staff. I feel humbled by my experience as a manager in such beautiful surroundings. The business management knowledge has been tremendous and I would love for anyone I know to visit this special place. Kindly check out (www.rivertrees.com) if you have a chance, and email Martina or myself for the time being for any bookings or enquiries. I urge any tour operator to place your wageni at Rivertrees for the begining or end of their clients' adventure packages. Rivertrees Country Inn, Karibu Sana!